The Diverse Israeli Table-Part 3- The Mediterranean Basin

The Diverse Israeli Table-Part 3- The Mediterranean Basin

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     THE DIVERSE ISRAELI TABLE
     VOL 1: | MIDDLE EAST | MAGHREB | MEDITERRANEAN | EASTERN EUROPE |
     VOL 2: | CULINARY POTPOURRI | HOLIDAYS | WINE | BREAD
     
         
    Part 3: The Mediterranean Basin
     
       

    From the culinary point of view, Greece, Turkey and Israel share far more than the Eastern rim of the Mediterranean Basin. In the homes and restaurants of each of the three nations, spices and herbs are used lavishly as are the various members of the onion family, including garlic; olives are so adored that they are consumed at breakfast, lunch and dinner and the principle cooking oil is olive oil; yogurt is used widely; sweets are much appreciated; and fresh fruits are sometimes attributed god-like qualities. More than this, the most popular vegetable, whether in Tel Aviv, Athens or Istanbul is eggplant which can be roasted, grilled, stuffed, or pureed with the sesame-seed based tchina sauce, and any vegetable large enough to be stuffed invariably winds up filled with one combination or another of meat, rice and vegetables. In every one of these cities, coffee and tea are indispensable to civilized life, serving as the focal point for social and business meetings. Because of the large number of immigrants to Israel from both of these countries, Greek and Turkish influences on the Israeli cuisine, both in homes and restaurants, are happily inescapable.


    Turkey - Yogurt and Rose Water

    Once at the center of the Ottoman Empire, the cuisine of Turkey had an enormous influence on the dining styles of many Middle-Eastern nations, Israel perhaps being first among these. Because the Turks borrowed a great deal from their neighbors, modern Turkish cookery is influenced by that of the Greeks, Iranians, Kurds, Armenians, Romanians and Albanians. If one were to seek the archetypal Middle-Eastern cuisine, it would surely be that of Turkey.

    Because Turkey was a Moslem nation, pork was a forbidden food. This in turn meant that the Jews of Istanbul, Ankara and Izmir had very few problems in adopting this cuisine to their tables. So compatible with local customs were the dietary traditions of Jews, that some of the most famous restaurants in the cities were owned by Jewish families. Dining out is important to Turks, and both restaurants and street vendors are an important part of the culture. As in Istanbul, many of the Turkish restaurants in Israel stay open until quite late at night and in the local souks (outdoor markets), street-side food vendors may be found from the small hours of the morning selling anything from spit roasted lamb, white cheeses, grilled fish, spiced chickpeas and candied fruits. Also having made its way to the Israeli table is the occasional use of the rose water that Turks so adore.

    Following are recipes for several dishes, each of which has been transplanted from its native Turkey to Israel where it may be found in a host of ethnic restaurants. The recipes are designed to serve 4.


     
     

     

     
    Bedouin woman milking goat, Beit Tsafafa
     

    Eggs with Yogurt - Cilbir

    1 cup yogurt
    4 eggs
    2 Tbsp. butter
    1 Tbsp. vinegar
    1 tsp. hot paprika
    1 clove garlic, minced
    salt and pepper to taste

     

    In a small mixing bowl, combine the yogurt, garlic and salt. Divide the mixture into 4 ovenproof ramekins and place in a slow oven to heat through. Add the vinegar to boiling water, and poach the eggs. Remove the eggs with a slotted spoon and place an egg in each ramekin. Sprinkle over with salt and pepper to taste and return to the oven. Melt the butter in a small skillet. Stir in the paprika, and distribute the butter over the eggs. Serve immediately.


     
     

     

     
    Grapes, Lakhish region
     

    Cinnamon Wine Soup

    3 cups dry red wine
    3 Tbsp. each cornstarch and sugar
    2 egg yolks, beaten lightly
    1 stick cinnamon, about 3" (7 1/2 cm) long
    peel of 1/2 lemon, in 2 - 3 pieces

     

    In a saucepan, simmer together the wine, cinnamon and lemon peel for 10 minutes. Blend the cornstarch with 3 Tbsp. of cold water in a mixing bowl. Stir in 3 cups of water, transfer to a separate saucepan and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Strain the cornstarch mixture into the wine and add the sugar, stirring well (may add more sugar to taste).

    Slowly spoon about 1 cup of the hot wine soup into the egg yolks, beating constantly. Pour the mixture back into the soup slowly, beating constantly. Heat through but do not boil. Taste and correct the seasoning with sugar if necessary. May be served hot or chilled.


    Zucchini Stuffed with Cheese

    4 small zucchini squash, about 5" (12 cm) long
    225 gr. feta or other salty goats' cheese,
    drained and crumbled
    2 Tbsp. Swiss style cheese, grated
    2 Tbsp. each clarified butter and flour
    1 Tbsp. fresh dill, chopped
    2 cloves garlic, crushed
    butter and breadcrumbs as required
    salt, pepper and paprika to taste
    rice with nuts, for serving (recipe follows)

     

    Drop the squash into a large amount of lightly salted boiling water and reduce the flame, simmering until the squash are just tender (about 15 minutes). Drain and let cool.

    In a mixing bowl, combine the cheeses, flour, dill, garlic, pepper and a bit of salt.

    Slice the squash in half lengthwise and scoop out the seeds. Arrange, cut side up, in a serving dish and sprinkle the shells with pepper. Fill with the cheese mixture, dust lightly with breadcrumbs and dot with butter. Glaze under a hot broiler until the cheese is sizzling. Over all, drop some of the clarified butter and sprinkle lightly with paprika. Serve hot with the rice pilaf.


     
     

     

     
    Sorting rice for a Druze wedding
     

    Rice with Nuts

    1 1/2 cups rice, well washed
    3/4 cup blanched chopped almonds
    1/4 cup each pine nuts and honey
    2 Tbsp. each oil and soy sauce
    1 tsp. salt

     

    In a saucepan, combine the rice with 2 1/4 cups of water and the salt. Cover, bring to the boil, reduce the flame and cook over a low flame until the rice is dry and tender.

    Heat the oil in a skillet and lightly saute the pine nuts and almonds. Add the nuts, honey and soy sauce. Toss gently with the cooked rice and serve piping hot.


    Rose Petal Sherbet

    1 cup rose petal jam
    1/4 cup lemon juice
    3 cups pineapple, shredded
    1 Tbsp. rose water
    crystallized rose petals for garnish (optional)

     

    Note: Rose petal jam, crystallized rose petals and rose water may be purchased in most health food and natural food shops.

    In a small saucepan, gently heat the jam and then strain well. Dilute with 3 cups of water and add the lemon juice and pineapple. Heat through and then remove from the flame and let cool for 20 minutes.

    Transfer the mixture to chilled ice trays. Cover with foil and place in the freezer until the mixture is thick. Stir well and refreeze. Stir once more when the mixture is thickened but before frozen through. Let freeze solid. Remove from the freezer about 15 minutes before serving. If desired, garnish with crystallized rose petals.

    Note: This recipe will serve 8-12. The unused portions may be kept in the freezer nearly indefinitely.


    Arak Cookies

    1 1/4 cups butter
    3/4 cup sugar
    2 egg yolks
    3 Tbsp. arak liqueur (can substitute ouzo or Pastis)
    2 1/2 cups flour
    1/2 tsp. baking powder
    1 cup blanched almonds, ground finely
    1/2 cup confectioners' sugar

     

    Let the butter soften at room temperature and cream it together with the sugar and egg yolks. Add the arak and cream together again. Sift the flour and baking powder into this mixture and knead into a firm dough. Add the almonds and knead again.

    Form the dough into 3" (7 1/2 cm) crescents and place these on an ungreased cookie tin. Bake in a medium oven until the cookies are done (20-25 minutes). Remove from the oven, let cool for 5 minutes and sprinkle with the confectioners' sugar. May be served hot or cool.


    The Greek Influence - Simplicity and Conviviality

    Because pork and seafood are the most popular ingredients in many Greek dishes, one might think that it would have been difficult to adapt Hellenic cuisine to the requirements of the Jewish communities within Greece and later, of those Greeks who immigrated to Israel. This was not the case, however, for Greek cookery has always had a wide latitude for culinary inventiveness. In this inventiveness, the Jewish communities of Corfu and Thessaloniki did well; so well, in fact, that many originally Jewish recipes have become standard offerings in most Greek homes and restaurants.

    The two keys to truly excellent Greek food, which has attained enormous popularity within Israel, are simplicity and conviviality. Cooking materials, methods and ingredients tend to be simple, not complex, and this is one of the great strengths of the food - whether it is consumed in the tavernas of Athens or Cos, in Israeli seaside restaurants or in the homes of Greek Israelis throughout the country.

    Anyone who enjoys the Greek cuisine knows that there are no Greek gastronomic encyclopedias and there are practically no formal rules for cooks. Improvisation is always in order, adding just a bit of this or that, always increasing the pleasure of the meal. Above all, whether in the preparation or the consumption, Greek cuisine should be pleasurable.

    The following recipes are designed to serve
    4 - 6.


     
     

     


     
    Vegetable market, Kiryat Shmona
     

    Asparagus with Egg and Lemon Sauce - Asparagi me Avgolemono

    24 large asparagus, fresh
    1 cup avgolemono sauce, hot (recipe follows)
    1 Tbsp. olive oil
    juice of 1 large lemon
    dill, chopped, for garnish

     

    Trim the stems and cook the asparagus in boiling salted water with the lemon juice and oil added, just until tender. Lift out gently with a slotted spoon and let drain.

    Pour the avgolemono sauce over the asparagus, sprinkle with the dill and serve at once.


    Avgolemono Sauce

    Note: Greeks adore this sauce and it can be put to good use in soups, in fish and lamb dishes and with salads.

    6 egg yolks
    juice of 2 lemons
    1 cup chicken or beef stock
    salt and pepper to taste

     

    Beat together the egg yolks and lemon juice and add these to the stock. Over a low flame, stirring constantly, cook until the sauce has thickened. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper and serve hot. (Yields about 1 cup).


    Bean Soup - Fassouladha

    2 1/2 cups dried lima beans
    1/2 cup olive oil
    2 medium onions, chopped finely
    2 medium carrots, chopped
    1/2 cup celery, chopped
    1 - 2 cloves garlic, chopped finely
    1 cup tomatoes, peeled and chopped
    1 Tbsp. tomato puree
    1/2 tsp. each salt, pepper and sugar
    4 cups chicken stock
    3 Tbsp. parsley, chopped

     

    Place the beans in a mixing bowl and pour over 4 cups of cold water. Cover and soak overnight.

    In a large saucepan, heat the oil and saute the onion, carrots, celery and garlic until the onions are translucent.

    Add the tomatoes, tomato puree, salt, pepper and sugar. Cover and simmer on a medium low flame for about 10 minutes. Add the beans, stock and the water in which the beans were soaked.

    Cover and continue to simmer gently for 2 hours longer. Add 1 Tbsp. of the parsley and cook until the beans are tender (about 45 minutes). Sprinkle over with the remaining parsley and serve hot.


    Leg of Lamb with Olive Sauce - Arni Arrosto

    about 1/2 kg. lamb bones
    3 large carrots, diced
    3 large onions, chopped coarsely
    1 bouquet garni made by tying together 3 sprigs of parsley, 1 bay leaf, several celery leaves and fresh thyme
    1 leg of lamb, about 2 1/2 kgs.
    4 - 5 cloves garlic, cut in slivers
    375 gr. black olives, pitted and chopped
    1 can anchovy fillets, about 60 gr., rinsed under cold water and then mashed
    2 Tbsp. parsley, chopped finely
    1 tsp. garlic, chopped finely
    juice of 1/2 lemon
    1/4 tsp. paprika
    salt and pepper to taste
    olive oil as required

     

    Prepare a stock by combining the lamb bones, carrots, onions, bouquet garni and 3 1/2 cups of cold water. Season with salt and pepper, cover, bring just to the point of boiling and then immediately reduce the flame so that the stock simmers gently for 1 hour.

    Place the leg of lamb on a roasting pan. Make insertions into the lamb with a very sharp knife, and in each insertion, place a sliver of garlic. Rub the meat with salt and pepper and then with olive oil. Place in an oven that has been preheated to 200 degrees Celsius.

    After 15 minutes, reduce the oven temperature to 170 degrees Celsius and continue to roast the meat, basting often with the drippings and oil until the meat is done. Remove the lamb to a preheated platter and set aside to keep warm.

    Spoon off the excess fat from the pan juices and discard.

    Strain the stock and add 1 cup to the pan juices. Place the pan over a medium flame and stir well, scraping all the particles that stick to the pan. Add the remaining stock, stirring constantly and boil the mixture down until it leaves about 2 cups of gravy. Add the olives, anchovies, parsley, chopped garlic, lemon juice and paprika and heat through, stirring constantly until well blended. Correct the seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Carve the lamb and serve the gravy in a separate dish.


     
     

     

     
    Street sign, Old Jaffa
     

    Herbed Fried Fish - Psari Tiganito me Saltsa

    1/2 cup flour
    1/2 tsp. each salt and pepper
    2 eggs, well beaten with 2 Tbsp. water
    750 gr. sole fillets
    1/4 cup each olive oil
    1/4 cup wine vinegar
    3 - 4 cloves garlic, minced
    1/2 tsp. each rosemary, oregano and paprika
    lemon wedges and parsley for garnish

     

    In a small mixing bowl, combine the flour, salt and pepper. Dip the fillets first in the egg mixture and then in the flour, coating each piece well. Repeat this process 2-3 times and then shake off whatever excess adheres.

    In a large skillet, heat the oil and fry the fillets, several at a time, until golden brown. Set aside to drain on paper toweling. Add the remaining ingredients (except the parsley and lemon wedges) to the oil and, over a low flame, stirring, scrape the bottom and sides of the skillet well, until the sauce begins to bubble. Pour over the fish and serve immediately, garnished with the parsley and lemon wedges.


    Braised Potatoes - Patates Spiros

    1/4 cup olive oil
    1 cup onion, chopped
    2 - 3 cloves garlic, chopped
    4 medium to large potatoes, peeled and sliced
    2 Tbsp. tomato puree
    1/2 tsp. each salt, pepper and oregano
    about 1 cup chicken stock
    Tabasco sauce to taste

     

    Heat the oil in a heavy skillet and saute the onion and garlic until golden-brown. Add the potato slices, tomato puree, salt, pepper, oregano and just enough stock to cover the potatoes. Season to taste with Tabasco. Bring to a boil and then reduce the flame. Simmer, uncovered, until the potatoes are tender (about 25 minutes).


    Honey Cake with Nuts - Karidopitta

    225 gr. very fine sugar
    1/2 cup honey
    juice of 1 lemon
    1 tsp. ground cinnamon
    225 gr. flour, sifted
    1 tsp. baking powder
    225 gr. walnuts, chopped
    1/4 cup butter, softened
    4 eggs, separated, at room temperature

     

    In a small saucepan, heat 3/4 cup of water and in this dissolve half the sugar. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes, stirring regularly. Stir in the honey, lemon juice and half of the cinnamon and simmer, stirring for 5 minutes longer. Remove from the flame and let cool for 1/2 hour.

    In a mixing bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, half the nuts and the remaining cinnamon.

    In another bowl, cream together the butter and remaining sugar until light in color. To this mixture add the egg yolks, one at a time, beating well. Beat in the walnut mixture.

    In yet another bowl, beat the egg whites stiff and gently fold these into the nut and flour mixture. Transfer to a well-greased baking tin about 8" (20 cm) square, sprinkle the top with the remaining nuts and bake in a medium oven until a wooden toothpick placed in the center comes out clean (about 50 minutes). Remove the cake from the oven and cut into square or diamond portions in the baking tin. Pour the cooled syrup over and let stand, covered, overnight. Serve at room temperature.


     
     
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